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This is Your Knife!
Cutting up food
into uniform pieces is one of the most important skills to master
in Chinese cooking. And once you learn to use an all-purpose Chinese
chef's knife, it's easier than you think. If Yan can cut, so can
you!
I
like to tell my viewers and students that the Chinese chef's knife
is the original Chinese food processor. It can slice, mince, chop,
crush, tenderize, and scoop up food - and you can even use the end
of the handle to grind spices. Complement it with a smaller paring
knife for finer cutting and making garnishes, and you'll be ready
for just about anything.
--from
Martin Yan's Feast, The Best of Yan Can Cook, by Martin Yan, published
by Bay Books, 1998. (For your autographed copy click here)
Shop
Till You Chop: Buying a Chinese Chef's Knife
Although
the lightweight, all-purpose Chinese chef's knife is sometimes called
a cleaver and looks like a Western meat cleaver, it's a different
tool altogether (and thus should never be used for hacking bones
- for that you'll need a heavier one). A good Chinese chef's knife
is well balanced, well constructed, and has a fine blade that holds
an edge. Always remember that a sharp knife is a safer knife.
Traditional
carbon steel Chinese chef's knives are available in Asian hardware
stores. They are easy to sharpen, but they rust and will discolor
acidic foods like onions and lemons. Ordinary inexpensive stainless
steel, on the other hand, can dull quickly and is hard to sharpen.
For years, I couldn't find a good, functional all-purpose Chinese
kitchen knife. That's why I consulted many professional colleagues
and Chinese chefs, and eventually we designed a high-carbon stainless
steel blade, Martin Yan's Ultimate Chef's Knife, which I use on
the Yan Can cook show. High-carbon stainless steel won't discolor
food and keeps a fine, sharp edge.
In
some high-quality chef's knifes, the end of the blade, called the
tang (no relation to the Chinese dynasty of the same name!), extends
all the way to the end of the handle and is held in place by three
rivets. You can also find traditional knives with cylindrical wooden
handles (which tend to loosen and crack over time). Test the balance
of the knife and the comfort of the handle as you hold it. It should
feel substantial, yet not so heavy that you have to be a bodybuilder
to lift it.
Getting
a Grip
Hold
the knife in your writing hand (the Chinese call this the "chopstick
hand"). Move your hand all the way up the handle so that your thumb
is on one side of the blade and your index finger on the other side.
Curling your index finger slightly, grasp the blade firmly between
your thumb and index finger. This may feel a bit strange at first,
but once you get used to it, you'll find that grasping the blade
in this way gives you much more control than simply wrapping all
your fingers around the handle.
Use
your free hand to hold the food in place, curling your fingertips
under. Use the flat side of the blade alongside the first knuckles
of your free hand, and as you slice or chop, slide your free hand
along to guide the blade and keep it vertical. To avoid cutting
yourself, never uncurl the fingers of your free hand, and never
raise the blade higher than the first knuckle. Like I always say,
"The idea is to move your fingers, not remove them!" Try not to
wiggle the blade while cutting. Use a firm downward and slightly
forward motion
Wok
On!
Here's my number
one tip for keeping your wok happy and perfectly seasoned. Use it!
Don't banish it to that extra storage area behind the basement door.
Hang it in your kitchen, where you'll reach for it all the time
to cook all kinds of food - not just Chinese or Asian dishes.
Short
Cuts: Knife Technique Made Simple
Slicing
Holding
the food and the Chinese chef knife firmly, cut straight down, using
the knuckles of your free hand as a guide.
Julienne
and shredding
Stack
a few slices, and use the slicing technique, cutting straight down
through the stack to create sticks. For matchstick julienne, start
with 1/8-inch slices, and cut them into 1/8-inch sticks. To shred
food into fine slivers, begin by cutting paper-thin slices, then
cut across them in the same way to create thin strip.
Dicing
Line
sticks up perpendicular to the blade, and slice straight down across
them, creating cubes.
Mincing
Start
by cutting the ingredient into thin strips, then dice the strips.
Hold the knife handle in one hand and, with the other, hold down
the tip of the blunt edge of the blade. Using the tip as a pivot,
raise and lower the blade in a chopping motion, moving it from side
to side to mince everything evenly. Scoop up minced ingredients
occasionally, flip them over, and keep chopping to ensure even mincing.
Roll-Cutting
This
technique is used for long vegetables, like carrots or zucchini.
It makes attractive chunks and exposes more of the surface area
of the vegetable. Hold the blade perpendicular to the board and
cut straight down on the diagonal. Then roll the vegetable a quarter-turn,
and cut straight down again at the same diagonal angle. Continue
rolling and cutting in this way all along the length of the vegetable.
Parallel
Cutting
Used
to cut broad, thin slices of meat or vegetables. Lay the food close
to the edge of the board with the fingers of your free hand flat
on top of it. Angle the Chinese chef's knife so that it's
almost parallel to the board, slanting slightly downward. Move it
slowly and carefully back and forth to slice the food, paying close
attention to avoid cutting your fingers.
Crushing
To
crush ginger or garlic, place it near the edge of the cutting board,
lay the knife blade flat over it with the blade facing away from
you, and with the heel of your free hand, give the side of the blade
a good whack, being careful to avoid the edge of the blade.
Tenderizing
Use
the blunt edge of the Chinese chef's knife to tenderize meat by
pounding it in a crisscross pattern. It's even more fun to get out
your aggressions by turning the blade on its side and slapping the
surface of the meat.
Care
and Cleaning: Staying on the Cutting Edge
Wash your chef's
knife after each use in warm, soapy water and dry it well. To preserve
its handle, never soak a chef's knife in water, and never put it
in the dishwater. Store your knife in its own protected place (I
use a magnetic knife rack),. not in a drawer where its edge might
be dulled by knocking against other tools. To maintain a sharp edge,
I recommend using a traditional knife sharpening steel .
- Hold the
steel firmly, placing its tip on a cutting board.
- Position
the knife at a 20-degree angle to the steel with the blade facing
down and the handle of the knife just below the handle of the
steel.
- Push the
blade downward along the steel, pulling it toward you as you
go, until you reach the steel's tip.
- Move the
blade back up and place its other side against the steel: repeat
the sharpening action, moving the blade from the steel handle
to its tip.
- Repeat six
to eight times on each side of the blade.
The
Cutting Board
The cutting
is your knife's partner and best friend. Whether you prefer one
made of wood or plastic, the key is to use a board that's big enough
to hold what you're chopping so things don't go flying all over
the place. To keep the board from sliding around, fold a damp kitchen
towel in half and lay it under the board. Avoid cutting on hard
surfaces such as marble - this is bad for your knife.
We
have a built-in butcher block surface at home, but I still like
to place a smaller wood or plastic board over it to preserve its
surface. These smaller boards are also easier to store and clean.
That's especially important when you've been cutting meat, poultry,
or fish. Some people like to reserve a separate board just for that
purpose to avoid cross-contamination of other foods.
No
matter what you're chopping, it's a good idea to scrub your cutting
board with soap and hot water after each use and to clean it occasionally
with a mild solution of bleach or baking soda and water. Vinegar
or lemon juice can also be used to clean and deodorize a cutting
board.-- by Chef Martin Yan
From
Martin Yan - The Chinese Chef
For
an autographed copy of this and other cookbooks by Martin Yan, visit
his official
online store!
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